Installing the head drain kit is quite simple. The first step is installing the aluminium press fittings into the cylinder head.
To install the fittings, the factory freeze plugs on the back of the cylinder head must be removed. Once the freeze plugs have been removed it is important to clean the bore where the fittings will be installed. This can be done with some degreaser and a clean rag. Next step is to actually install the fittings! It is advised to place the fittings into a freezer for 30 minutes prior to installation - slightly warming the holes on the cylinder head will also aid making installation easier. Once ready to install, a small amount of sealant is recommended on the fitting - it can then be pressed into the cylinder head taking great care not to damage the flare of the AN fitting. The flat face of the fitting should sit flush with the cylinder head.
Once the fittings have been pressed into the cylinder head, it is recommended to fit the cylinder head to the block, as well as fitting the two supplied AN10 lines ready for mock up.
Now it's time to also fit your sump and mark where the lines will be going in order to accurately mark where your sump fittings should be welded. This will be down to you, however the lines should pass fairly tightly next to the block down to the sump. In an ideal scenario, the sump weld on fittings should sit at the same height as the turbo oil drain fitting in order to ensure they are not submerged in oil at operating conditions.
Once we have marked where our weld on fittings need to go, it's time to drill the sump. Match the sumps hole to the fittings protruding section. Once drilled, it is recommended to weld the fittings from both the inside and outside of the sump if possible to ensure you don't end up with any leaks.
Now the sump can be refitted and the lines test fitted. If you marked them up correctly, the lines should sit free flowing and close to the engine block!